#11 All Over The Place (Cornwall that is)
Italian at its Best
Italian was on the menu this week when we visited the recently opened Mangia Restaurant in Killigrew Street here in Falmouth. Owners Sandra and Valter are wonderful hosts, passionate about cooking and serving amazing food. The menu offers plenty of variety and all the delicious deserts are home-made by Valter. Mark never has a pud: the choices on many menus fail to inspire him and he doesn’t really have a sweet tooth. However, the home-made factor won him over and he was not disappointed; his lemon tart was simply superb, as was my super tasty pecan pie with ice cream (also home-made – bloomin lush) We’ll definitely go again. And recommend to our Lyonesse guests.
We went to Camborne last weekend to take in the views from the top of Carn Brea. You can see miles of the north coast from this promontory and it’s well worth a trek up there to be rewarded with the fabulous vista.
Camborne, Pool and Redruth in particular have been the richest areas in the country for tin and copper mining for centuries. The legacy of mining is evident all around the area: much of the landscape has been shaped by its industry and the remains of engine houses, chimneys and other ancillary buildings stand as proud testament to the area’s mining heritage. We explored some of these buildings on our visit to Camborne; many of them have been recently restored through funding from the European Union who recognises its status as an important World Heritage Site
Serenity near Stithian’s Lake
On our way back from Camborne, we wanted to savour the sunshine. Consulting our trusty Ordnance Survey Map, we spotted a tankard sign on, sort of, our way home. The tankard sign drew us to the village of Menherion on the edge of Stithians Lake, 5ish miles from Falmouth. There we found The Golden Lion Inn and immediately wondered why on earth we hadn’t been before! It’s a cracking pub, clearly popular with families and for meals out, with lots of character and some attractive, mature gardens. There’s a campsite behind the trees and the lake within sight and it’s altogether in a rather lovely, peaceful spot – well worth the drive to.
While we’re on the subject of pubs, we popped into Porkellis this week to see how things were progressing at The Star Inn. Andrew and Anthony took over the pub last year and since then have invested all their time and energy into regenerating the pub and making it the hub of the community. They are succeeding: as well as offering the pub standard – beers, wines, spirits and other choice beverages, The Star Inn has fulfilled some much needed community functions; the newly refurbished interior plays host to not only the village shop but also the library. Although not yet serving hot meals (the new kitchen is next on the agenda), they have also come up with canny ways of giving the punters the grub they’re after, collaborating with The Cornish Cod-Father and The Shellfish Pig to provide mobile meals from the car park on some weekdays. They also get round the current non-kitchen situation by serving light meals such as tasty baguettes and home-baked treats from the bar. We look forward to popping by again to see what else is new. It’s a pub Cornwall should be proud of.
We’ve been to Fowey. Fowey’s terrific. But, we’ve never been to Polruan, which is so tantalisingly close, just a stone’s throw across the estuary, that you feel you could simply jump over. However, this weekend we wound our way to the magical town and viewed fabulous Fowey from t’other side. It’s pretty spectacular to be fair. Both places have the wow factor. It took us over an hour to get there mind (next time we’ll take the ferry over from Fowey), but it was definitely worth it.
Our walk began at the quayside, looking over towards Fowey
From there we made our way up the terraces of houses to walk parallel to the river and inland though field and wood to Pont Pill. In olden times a thriving quay at Pont was a convenient drop off for supplies. Now, the river is silted up, preventing most boats from navigating this far up. However, the history is present in the buildings and dwellings clustered at either side of the river here.
From Pont, we walked through shady woods, along an ancient path to Lanteglos Church – the church of St Wyllowe. The building dates from the 14th century with some elements, such as the Cornish Crosses evident in the church grounds, dating back even further to the 10th and 11th centuries. The site has clearly been a spiritual Mecca for many centuries and we experienced a sense of that as we explored this peaceful space.
The entrance to St Wyllowe church. Daphne du Maurier was married here in 1932 and the church features in her first novel The Loving Spirit
We tarried awhile here, enjoying the tranquillity, before moving on. For this leg of the journey, we headed coast side steadily uphill. The landscape opened out, taking a most dramatic shift to wide open fields affording panoramic views of sea and land.
We joined the coast path above the beautiful, hidden sandy beaches of Lantic Bay.
Then we followed the path around the headland back towards Polruan.
Before we headed home, a refreshing drink in the Lugger Inn on the quayside at Polruan was essential of course ;o)